TLO Hunting Articles

TLO GUIDE TO TROPHY FIELD PHOTOS

This photo guide is information taken from a flyer that all of our Timberland Outfitters guides follow. We also hand out this flyer to all of our hunters when they arrive for their hunts. The original flyer has more pictures.

Lance




TIMBERLAND OUTFITTERS GUIDE TO TROPHY FIELD PHOTOS

Taking quality in the field photos of you and your trophy will capture exact memories of your hunt. Excellent pictures will tell your story and are a trophy all their own. Few people will ever get to see your animal in person, and fewer will ever get to see your hunt. This leaves pictures as the best and easiest way to share and honor your trophy!

This Guide to Trophy Field Photos was designed to give you some simple rules to follow to insure that your trophy photos are of the upmost quality, and that your priceless memories will last forever.




Timberland Outfitters Productions Flagstaff Arizona
(928) 607-9380
www.tlohunting.com - info@tlohunting.com
Taking Trophy Pictures



#1. A picture should show respect for the beautiful animal that has given it's life to you!

#2. Take at least 12-24 of IN THE FIELD pictures at the kill site in all different kinds of poses, and you might find two that you like.

#3. Take pictures before you gut, dress or quarter the animal!

#4. If you have to tag the animal before your pictures, then make sure the tag doesn't show and distract from your animal.

#5. Make sure the animal is in a photo session friendly area. If the area is too cluttered or unsafe, then move the animal to a better or prettier place for your pictures. Don't let yourself be rushed or forced into taking bad pictures!

#6. Set the animal in a respectful position. "Safari" or "bedded style" pose, or on its side with legs together.

#7. Clean up the animal! Clean all blood and clutter from the animal. Wipe all blood from nose and if the tongue is sticking out then shove it back in or cut it off.

#8. Beware of the surroundings, capture the good and not the bad. Sticks, twigs, grass etc. should all be moved from in front of the animal. Other unsightly obstructions should be moved from the background of the picture, such as backpacks and other gear that will distract from the animal.

#9. Do not sit on or in front of the animal! Sit behind or beside the animal in a low position as to not overpower the picture or the animal.

#10. Place the head of the animal in an upright, lively, or peaceful position.

#11. If a bow was used then make sure it is in the pictures and that the arrows are showing! When placing a bow or rifle in the picture make sure it is not in the antlers, on, or in front of the animal! Place it at least as far back as you are and low so that it is not overpowering the animal or the antlers/horns. Make sure the barrel of a gun is not pointing or "look like" it is pointing at the animal, the hunter or the camera!

#12. If the animal has antlers/horns, then make sure some part of the antler/horn is the closest thing to the camera and not something else!

#13. You can prop or tie the antlers/horns up so that you don't have to hold them. If you hold them up, then hold them at arms length, either up or out. Hold them in a way that you are not covering up the antlers/horns with your hands.

#14. Pictures should be taken from a level or below level position to the subject. Lay flat on the ground if you have to!

#15. Beware of shadows and do not let them cover the face of the hunter or the animal. Use your flash! Lift, turn around or remove hunter's hat to show face.

#16. Try skylining antlers or place them against a contrasting backdrop.

#17. Find strengths of the animal and show them off in the picture!

#18. If taking the trophy pictures is not harder or as hard as your hunt, then you are doing it wrong!!!!

#19. Remember to also take photos every day of your hunt and even while scouting. Capturing Trophy Field Photos does not show our capture the whole hunt. These "Making Memories" photos will help tell the whole story of your hunt.

#20. SMILE!!!!



At the bottom of this page you will find five pictures. All of them are examples of different poses. The below paragraphs will describe each one in order from left to right. You may click on the pictures to see a larger photo.



The First picture below is an example of the "Spread" pose. This pose is good for all animals. This picture should be taken with arms fully extended up or out no matter if the spread is 20" or 60". Be careful that the nose is not the closest thing to the camera. Note that the nose of this bull is covered by a small bit of grass so it doesn't look like a moose !


The Second picture is the "Broadside" pose. This pose is good for showing off length and mass. It works best on tall antlered game and antelope. Antlers can be leaned toward camera to insure some part of the antler is the closest thing to the camera! Note that the bow is showing but being held away from the animal. The closest thing to the camera on this photo is the third and forth points.



The Third is the "Quartered" pose. It is good with all animals. It will show mass and length of all points leaving spread to the imagination! Note that the head is tilted toward the camera allowing the front fork to be closest to the camera. Don't let antlers protrude through the face of the hunter! This picture was taken from a prone position.



The Fourth picture is the "Pedestal" position. The head of the animal is held up under the chin in a pedestal- like and natural looking position. This pose can be from any angle and is best when held level with the hunter with antlers/horns protruding above the hunter, or into the skyline like this Coues deer. This pose works great with smaller animals like deer, antelope, sheep, goats etc..




The Fifth picture is an example of a "Strength" pose. We chose this position to show off the beautiful mass and length of this desert sheep. The closest thing to the camera is the middle of the horn. The sun was overpowering our flash but the background was awesome !








Lance Crowther

Back to the Hunting Articles